By Sarah Colton
March 13, 2013

“Who are these people who are just rising out of nothing and breaking the rules?” -Nicole Miller, Elements Showcase
retail panelist and owner of Blackbird, Seattle

As an American long-term Paris resident, I had been ‘prepped’ by my entourage – on both sides of the Atlantic – and thought I was ready for what I would find at the Elements Showcase 2013. “It’s smaller and really nothing compared to the scale of Esxence in Milan or even Pitti in Florence. You can be in and out of there in half a day.” The wisdom of French tradition and technical excellence also informed me that, “there are, of course, some outstanding American niche brands, mostly with French noses, but many are literally made up like vats of bathtub gin by people who aren’t ‘real’ perfumers.”

All of this might be true at a certain level, and those who choose to take it as such should feel a comfortable satisfaction. Perilously comfortable. For what I saw and felt at Elements was enormous power. The peculiar American power that burns in the wildness and freedom of the American psyche: capable of playing within barriers, yet not hesitating to bust through them to map out new territories — when necessary or simply for sport. The elemental archetypical characteristics of niche fragrance – niche anything for that matter—run deep in the American spirit.

Because of the bottom-up nature of any niche movement, and the continental scale and the American niche fragrance phenomenon, it is virtually impossible to view its entirety or measure its force. However, the structure of the Elements Showcase, masterminded by Frederick Bouchardy, Ulrich Lang, and Jeffrey Lawson, offers a metaphoric ‘tip of the iceberg’ vantage point for taking this measure. With real icebergs the laws of physics allow us to do this. At Elements, the massive depths of the niche fragrance phenomenon extending beneath the visible surface can be measured in the rock solid convictions of the vendors and the tremendous energy pulsing through the stands.

Brands and People

In two intense days I (regretfully) did not visit every stand, but of those I did visit I found people and brands of enormous range and vigor. From the decidedly international and sophisticated Arquiste to the deliberately local and down to earth Juniper Ridge, American niche overflows with amazing stories, determination, optimism, confidence, humanity, and talent.

Arquiste

Arquiste’s references, like those of its owner Carlos Huber, are artistically storied, rich, erudite, classy and urbane. Both international and American, ‘Boutonnière No. 7’ and its suggestion of a crushed gardenia on the lapel of a Parisian dandy sparked my imagination, while at the same time the sensuous and animalistic fragrance of gardenia recalled boutonnières of my own America, personally chosen and plucked from voluptuous gardenia hedges in the Carolinas of my youth. Real cufflinks and a stickpin anchor the metaphor in the proper places.

Juniper Ridge

At the other end of the spectrum is Juniper Ridge. Musing over lunch on the first day, I wondered by what mishap this lumberjack sitting next to me had stumbled upon the Elements trade show. This is how I met Obi Kaufmann, Juniper Ridge’s Art Director, who told me the Juniper Ridge story and introduced me to Hall Newbegin, President of Juniper Ridge. It was the ‘Big Sur Trail Crew Soap’ that won my heart, followed in short order by Backpacker’s colognes and other fragrances made with ingredients sustainably harvested from the deserts of San Jacinto and the forests of the Pacific Northwest. The photo of their portable still at sunset was the last straw.

Between these two extremes extends an array of brands and fragrances as wide and diverse as the American people – their passions, their lands, and their origins.

Juliet Stewart’s eponymous debut fragrance of Juliet Stewart Pure Parfum Extrait evokes the softness of mornings along the Amalfi Coast, while her practical travel sachets reveal how beautifully Italian roots and Yankee ingenuity can blossom in Anglo-American soil.

MCMC brand owner Anne McClain’s story of how she became interested in perfumes — through a two-hour perfume class she took on a whim at age 25 — is disarming. Her Dude No.1 Beard Oil is cunning.

Owners Anne Sanford and Kristi Head, claim that Lurk is ‘possibly a vocation, definitely a declaration, sometimes a diversion and always an amusement. Their fragrance ‘PRJV1’of exquisite graphics and rich natural oils exudes ‘Expansive layers of Jasmin and Rose’ which are also ‘…raw, unrefined, possibly debaucherous (sic) definitely pleasing.” In addition to being exactly that, the peculiar humor of this entirely accurate description could have been lifted from a J.Peterman catalogue.

Sarah Howoritz, quietly gutsy and reassuring, has followed a solitary path to soaring pinnacles in the creation of Sarah Horowitz Perfumes, her own be-spoke, natural and now ‘cult’ brand.

Charna Ethier’s ‘Moss Gown’ for Providence Perfume Co. takes the complexity of naturals to exquisitely haunting depths.

Ulrich Lang the man, was understandably everywhere at the Elements Showcase except at his stand, so I’m thankful for the sample of ‘Lightscape’ I saved from his November 2012 launch party at NOSE in Paris. A finalist for the upcoming 2013 Duftstars fragrance awards (the German version of the Fifi awards), Lightscape is one of the fragrances I always carry in my handbag.

It lightens and opens everything up, but with just the right spicy charge to confuse people about what’s really going on. Always a useful tactic.

And I can’t begin to name them all….

No babes in the woods, American niche fragrance brands have expert and willing hands to help them find their way.

To reassure the die-hard believers of ‘you can’t make a perfume unless you are a trained and experienced nose’, American niche perfumery has ample access to expert mentors for facilitating all aspects of perfume creation. From assistance with conception, creation, and bottle design, to packaging, positioning, and marketing, François  Damide of Crafting Beauty Inc., François Duquesne CEO of Beauty Entreprise and Darryl Do of Delbia Do Fragrances and Flavors, are excellent examples of ‘fragrance mentors’ in anticipation of niche brands’ every need. Well connected and savvy, their handiwork was in evidence among vendors at Elements, where they were to be found happily circulating in the midst of once and future success stories.

Access to high-quality raw materials 

A natural raw materials panel discussion and presentation about Ylang-Ylang organized by Robertet was an eye-opener about the accessibility of high-quality raw materials to talented American niche perfumers of every ilk. On the same panel Robertet senior perfumer, Olivia Jan shared the mike with D. S. and Durga owner David Moltz, as well as independent and self-trained perfumer Sarah Horowitz of Sarah Horowitz Perfumes. Referring to experiences with Robertet, David Moltz’s youthful excitement about discovering the differences that can be obtained by using more refined or less refined ylang-ylang oil was contagious. Sarah Horowitz shared her creation, Eau de Light, also created with Robertet naturals. Later in the day, while conversing with Charma Ethier of Providence Perfume Co., I learned that she too benefits from access to Robertet’s excellent natural raw materials. And there are surely others.

Diversity in Retail at home and abroad

The three American retailers who took part in the Elements retail panel discussion represented a wide diversity of American tastes, personalities, demographics, and needs. The potential markets this offers to American niche is enormous.

Osswald, represented on the panel by urbane New York store manager Clement Pinard, revels in its European origins (Swiss, no less), and offers high-end placement for American and international luxury and exclusive niche brands in the luminous and spacious interior of its tony Soho boutique.

The New London Pharmacy located in the Chelsea district was represented on the panel by straight talking Marketing Director Wesley Rowell. The shelves of this New York interpretation of a cozy high-end neighborhood pharmacy are packed with an impressive selection of American and international niche fragrances crammed alongside standard drugstore items and other beauty and toiletries of all races and creeds.

A continent away in the Pacific northwest and with a decided Seattle bent, Blackbird and its feisty owner Nicole Miller promote and defend local and artisanal fragrances made by and for ‘not wealthy’ people, but just ‘folks’, as Nicole calls them, who are falling in love with perfume.

François Hénin, the only non-American retailer on the panel, offers a clear indication of the growing power and presence of American niche fragrances abroad. An unabashed Americaphile, François currently carries seven American niche fragrance brands at Jovoy, his Paris boutique.

Representatives of other retail establishments noted in the crowd and the global buyers in attendance, including those from Bergdorf Goodman, Henri Bendel, Lord and Taylor, Stanley Korshak, Osswald New York / Zurich, Oak, The Future Perfect, Odin, Breathe Cosmetics Berlin,Takashimaya Japan, Tomorrowland Japan, Net-A-Porter, Anthropologie, Barneys New York, Saks Fifth Avenue, C.O. Bigelow, Ritz-Carlton Hotels & Resorts, Harrods London, Jovoy Paris, Birchbox, Shen Beauty, New London Pharmacy, Steven Alan, Blackbird, FSC Barber, Nobilis Group Germany, Cosmotheca Russia, Beautyhabit and Beauty Matrix Hong Kong.

The Fragrance Foundation: Recognition, Rewarding Excellence, and Creating Buzz 

On the first evening of the Elements Showcase, Fragrance Foundation President Elizabeth Musmanno presented the 2013 Fragrance Foundation ‘Indie’ (niche) award. First offered only one year ago, the ‘Indie’ fragrance Fifi award honors “an established brand that has been on the market for at least two years, is not distributed or owned by a large company and is sold in one to 50 stores in the U.S.” The amount of attention this award has attracted and the quality of the fragrances among the finalists is yet another indication of the strength of the movement. This year’s Fragrance Foundation Award went to By Kilian ‘Amber Oud’. Rodrigo Flores-Roux of Givaudan accepted the trophy for perfumer Calice Becker who was unable to attend the ceremony. The four other finalists (all of whom received miniature Fifi statues) were ‘Cuirelle’ Ramon Monegal, ‘30 Eau d’Hiver’ Le Cherche Midi, ‘Rima XI’ Carner Barcelona, and ‘Terasse à St-Germain’ Jul et Mad.

An Avid Media Following

The number of fragrance journalists, bloggers, and beauty editors circulating at Elements, along with numerous entries and comments on Facebook and Twitter is a sign of healthy interest by the public. Among others spotted in the crowd were representatives from Beauty Fashion, WWD, Coming To My Senses, Fragrantica, Sniffapalooza,The Non-Blonde, Hayariparis, and Bunchmag.  This showcase also attracted distinguished journalists from media outlets like The New York Times, Elle, W Magazine, Town & Country, Allure, Wallpaper*, GQ, Martha Stewart Living, Women’s Wear Daily and New York Magazine.

Visionary Leadership at the Top

Through the energy and vision of its Bouchardy, Lang, and Lawson leadership team, the Elements Showcase has forged definition, structure, standards, dialogue, and cooperation in a world of dissimilar and unequal partners, whose very nature as niche players often runs counter to these concepts. As a show of national proportion the Elements Showcase has hoisted the American niche market onto the international playing field. Currently small by comparison to equivalent shows in other countries, and tiny by comparison to the size of the American niche phenomenon, its ambitious program of two events per year continues to attract and inspire energy at every level.

After two years, Elements appears to have hit its stride and will be taking its model to Dubai in May. What in the world, you might ask, will these crazy Americans do next? I’m betting that the correct answer to this question can be found in the ‘tip of the iceberg’ metaphor: You ain’t seen the half of it!

Epilogue…

The submerged part of the iceberg.

It’s hardly surprising that I did, in fact, encounter the submerged part of the American niche fragrance iceberg – almost immediately upon leaving Elements. Stopping in an ‘Organic Avenue’ shop on 8th Avenue to pick up something for my plane trip the next morning, I struck up a conversation with Samantha, a bright twenty-something shop assistant.

Already knowledgeable about niche fragrances and excited to be speaking to a perfume journalist, she told me she wanted to become a perfumer but didn’t know where to begin. I made some suggestions, gave her some fragrance samples from Elements (which she clutched in her hand like rare pearls), and sent her off in the direction of Osswald and the New London Pharmacy. You’ll be hearing from her. The world will be hearing from her. She is the next generation of American niche. I recognized in her person the same untamed energy I felt at Elements. Even on that dull winter afternoon there was intense brightness in her eyes, and I distinctly remember the smell of wind in her hair.

View the full article and images here.

View the original article and images at Fragrantica.

By: Elena Knezhevich
1/15/13

Visit http://www.wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/products/elements-showcase-highlights-unique-brands-6191048 for full article and photos.

or

Download PDF of the article here.

August 24, 2012
by BELISA SILVA

With a focus on the experiential, the latest Elements Showcase—the fourth since the concept’s inception 19 months ago—drew nearly 3,000 visitors to a show featuring 115 exhibitors. The two-day event at Skylight West in Manhattan felt more like an art fair than a trade show, and that was just the point.

“This is not a regular trade show,” said Frederick Bouchardy, one of Elements’ founders and creator of indie fragrance brand Joya Studio. “The wild card when we first started this is we didn’t know how [the brands] would get along. It turns out we created an actual living community. People look forward to coming back, reconnecting with their peers.”

The event is meant to highlight design-oriented beauty brands in an open atmosphere, to encourage conversation and discovery.

“There’s no pipe and drape,” said Bouchardy. “There’s nothing separating the brands, which might be surprising because often these brands are considered to be very competitive. The idea is that this is meant to be an open forum.”

As compared to past shows, the event held on Tuesday and Wednesday was the most popular to date— for both guests and exhibitors.

“We’ve seen explosive growth from about 40 brands exhibiting in the first show [in January 2011],” said Bouchardy. “Because it’s a design showcase focused on the entire apothecary world we are examining fine fragrance, skin care, home fragrance, men’s grooming. This year we introduced color cosmetics.”

Exhibitors ranged from established brands like Apothia Los Angeles, Bond No. 9 and Memoire Liquide to new ones like Blind Barber, I Coloniali and Lily Bermuda, which was introduced to the U.S. market at the event.

For retailers, there was plenty of innovation to choose from.

“I definitely am looking for unique [products], something with no distribution or very little distribution,” said Bettina O’Neill, vice president and divisional merchandise manager for cosmetics at Barneys New York, who was on the hunt for “unusual fragrances,” innovative bath and body and men’s products. “This is the place to go because you go to the bigger trade shows and it’s too much. They really edited the selection and they really picked out the best of the best. I was able to find about four brands that were interesting.”

For the Elements team—made up of founders Bouchardy; Jeffrey Lawson, owner of Jeff Lawson Associates Inc., and Ulrich Lang, owner of Ulrich Lang Fragrances—offering new or emerging brands is always a plus.

“We like to launch brands here,” said Bouchardy. “But at the same time we like to show the heritage brands to show the inspiration and the evolution and put those next to each other.”

The event also featured workshops like an interactive educational session by Robertet entitled “160 Years of Roses” and a showcase forum with Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine, which explored how perfumery ingredients are evolving in niche scent formulations. Other features included an on-site manicurist from TenOverTen, a cupcake and scent pairing by Alice & Peter and a periodic table-inspired interactive fragrance bar from Takasago, which, according to Bouchardy, may be translated into a retail offering for the upcoming 2013 Showcase.

The space, which this year was reimagined by Brooklyn artists Sarah Cihat and Michael Miller, was meant to emphasize the visitor experience with a “nature-inspired aesthetic.”

“With Elements we always focus on a component of art installation within design and beauty,” said Lawson. “The concept is to create a user experience that is totally unique. You come into the space, it’s completely designed. You don’t feel like you are coming to a trade show. You are coming to an event, very much geared to the user. We wanted to keep the space open and welcoming.”

As far as trends go, the event’s cofounders found some common threads among this year’s exhibitors.

“I think that one of the trends that you see here is that the classics are back in a big way; classics that have been forgotten for a few years,” said Lang, who named Jean Patou and Agent Provocateur as examples. “These were the original visionaries.”

Another emerging trend involved the actual materials used to create beauty products.

“I think some of the innovation is the attention to rare and local materials and responsible sourcing,” said Bouchardy, who named Lisa Carrier Designs, which utilized a 400-year-old incense for its candle collection, and Juniper Ridge, a brand focused on wild crafting and foraging in the Pacific Northwest, as examples.

“It’s very simple,” said Juniper Ridge’s creative projects coordinator, Obi Kaufmann. “We’re a California company and we go from San Diego to Seattle looking for native western plants and tree trimmings in order to make a relentlessly natural fragrance. We manufacture our own essential oils from these native plants. We’re backpackers first and we backed into fragrance. [We ask], ‘How do we transport people to these places that we love?’ We do that through scent.”

Bouchardy added that another of the show’s themes involved scent-based storytelling.

“[It’s about] the complete story behind the fragrance,” said Bouchardy, who named fragrance company Eight & Bob—which showcased a scent created for John F. Kennedy—as one that stood out. “People are approaching it by creating an entire story line around it as if it were a novel, or a piece of history or a living creation. It’s a journey into the past.”

For Lang, this year also provided “a new playfulness in fragrance,” with brands like Smell Bent, Fornasetti, Alice & Peter and Niho Kozuru, which displayed sculptural candles made out of beeswax. “I think that artistry in fragrance is huge right now.”

For Vicken Arslanian, owner of EuroPerfumes, who was introducing new scents: Mad Madame from Romano Ricci, So Nude by Costume National and Montale’s Dark Purple and Eud Purple Rose, sharing the meaning behind his brands is paramount.

“We limit the distribution so we can have the chance to explain the concept behind [the product] for the consumer. Each one of these has a story,” said Arslanian.“ [We want the] consumer to have a connection to it.”

Apothia founder Ron Robinson—who was showing off his new transportive hand and body lotion—echoed a similar sentiment.

“It’s not just what’s in it, it’s how you are going to feel,” he said.

About the overall Showcase, Robinson said, “This is the first time we’ve ever been to a trade show in the 10 years I’ve built Apothia. I didn’t want to go to a trade show that was overexposing me. [Elements] just had the right feeling.”

NEW AND NOTEWORTHY AT ELEMENTS

» Histoires de Parfums introduced a collection of accessibly priced, cupcake-inspired perfumes called Alice & Peter.

» Anthony Logistics launched Grandma Stelle’s nostalgic personal care.

» Beauty Enterprise showcased new scents from Stella Cadente.

» Bond No. 9 introduced Manhattan and New York Musk fragrances.

» Cire Trudon launched limited-edition candles in colored glassware.

» Joya launched Ames Soeurs (Scent of Soulmates) perfume oil and limited-edition solid perfume.

» Lift Lab unveiled new packaging for its advanced skin care.

» Perfume Holding Corp.launched the I Coloniali bath and body collection.

» Ulrich Lang New York introduced Lightscape Eau de Toilette.

» Yuthica launched a new home fragrance collection.

Visit journaldesfemmes.com for full article and photos.

August 24, 2012, 11:13
by Francesca Chiericato

L’exposition bi-annuelle a rassemblé pendant deux jours les acteurs majeurs de la beauté et du parfum.

Le 20 et le 21 août dernier, New York a été le théâtre de la quatrième édition duElements Showcase. Organisée par Jeff Lawson, Frederick Bouchardy et Ulrich Lang, cette foire biannuelle réunit “les acteurs de l’industrie du parfum et de la beauté”, aussi bien établis qu’émergents.

Les marques, les acheteurs, les medias et les designers ont vécu une expérience multi-sensorielle. Ils ont participé au workshop “160 Years of Roses” (160 ans de roses), organisé par Robertet (un des leaders mondiaux des compositions pour les parfums) et dédié à l’histoire de la rose dans le monde de la parfumerie.

Ils ont aussi découvert de nombreuses enseignes dont on entendra beaucoup parler. C’est le cas de Smell Bent, marque d’eaux de toilettes basée à Los Angeles ; de Ten Over Ten, un salon new-yorkais qui vient de lancer sa gamme de vernis à ongles; ou encoreKarin Herzog, une marque de produits de beauté dont Kate Middleton raffole.

Les Frenchies ne sont pas en reste. Elements Showcase a accueilli Gérard Ghislain et ses dernières créations olfactives, les cinq fragrances “Alice&Peter“, dont les senteurs sont inspirées des macarons ; ou encore Nuxe, marque de cosmétique naturelle déjà très réputée dans l’Hexagone. Rendez-vous en 2013 pour découvrir d’autres nouveautés.

Source : Beautypress

View the original article and photos at Elsevier Business Intelligence.

Executive Summary
Unlike other trade shows where niche brands may be overshadowed by their larger peers, Elements celebrates the small guys. Its most recent installment in January 2012 attracted 110 brands and buyers from Barneys New York, Sephora, QVC and Saks Fifth Avenue, among other retailers, its founders say.

By Suzanne Blecher
“The Rose Sheet” Jul. 9, 2012, Vol. 33, No. 28

Celebrating its fourth installation Aug. 20-21 in New York, Elements Showcase has become a mecca for emerging designers to showcase their products, the event’s founders suggested in a June 11 interview.

Unlike other trade shows where niche brands may be overshadowed by their larger peers, Elements celebrates the small guys, and provides these artisan brands with real estate befitting of their crafts – sleek, white counters lit by natural sunshine in a contemporary loft space.

“A beautiful setting is just more appropriate,” said Elements cofounder Frederick Bouchardy.

Thus far the upscale boutique approach is working, with the show’s most recent installment in January 2012 attracting 110 brands and 2700 attendees. Of those in attendance, 54% were buyers from retailers such as Barneys New York, Sephora USA Inc., Henri Bendel, QVC, Anthropologie, Fred Segal, Lord & Taylor, Fred Segal and Saks Fifth Avenue.

The first Elements show in January 2011 featured 40 brands and 650 attendees, 40% of which were buyers.

The buyer presence is a significant draw for small brands in need of a brick-and-mortar home. That need has become more dire with retailers increasingly developing their own in-house brands.

Sephora, the “original beauty incubator of indie brands,” is adopting that strategy more and more, Jani Friedman, former managing director for beauty and personal care at Demeter Group, noted in a presentation at HBA Global Expo in June (“Changing Beauty Retail Environment Leaves Indie Brands “Homeless”” — “The Rose Sheet,” Jul. 2, 2012).

For French Restauranteur and Perfumer Gerard Ghislain, Elements has opened the door to “tons of new distribution in the States through niche fashion stores and lifestyle stores” for his brandHistoires de Parfums, according to Bouchardy.

Known for his avant-garde creations including petroleum- and mineral-inspired scents, the perfumer will launch a new brand at Elements in August.

MCMC Fragrances has also expanded its retail footprint through participation in Elements Showcase, Bouchardy said. The brand is now available in Japan after impressing buyers at the show.

MCMC’s Stories Collection is inspired by Anne McClain’s personal life experience. Hunter ($95 for a 40-mL eau de parfum), a bouquet of bourbon, vanilla, tobacco and fir blossom notes, was inspired by a childhood friend (“Indie Scents May Pose Promising Acquisitions” — “The Rose Sheet,” Feb. 6, 2012).

According to the Elements founders, representatives from U.K.-based Fenwick, Mecca Cosmetica in Australia and France’s Le Bon Marche have visited the show, among other international guests.

Elements “is really becoming a global phenomenon,” said Elements cofounder Ulrich Lang in the June interview. Lang, along with Bouchardy and Jeff Lawson, launched the show to help friends in the indie world get noticed.

In the beginning, “it was very much about our network,” said Bouchardy. But after the first show, “it was pretty quickly proven that there was a real need for this,” he explained.

While Lawson has roots in the trade show world as co-founder of Art Asia International Contemporary Art Fair, Bouchardy and Lawson are both indie brand owners.

Bouchardy owns Joya, a candle and fine fragrance collection. The candles, which sell for about $50, are composed of tropical palm oil wax that bears a “unique crystalline texture” that is a natural result of the temperature at which it is poured, according to a product description. Bouchardy has collaborated with Opening Ceremony, Rodarte and fine men’s clothing store The Brooklyn Circus on candle creations.

Ulrich Lang New York Fragrances’product offering includes Nightscape ($110/100-mL), a modern take on patchouli with topnotes of bergamot, lime, tangerine, sage, mint and basil and a heart of violet, jasmine, geranium leaves, sesame and honey. The base is leather and moss “interwoven with sheer ambers, precious woods and a hint of guava,” a product description says.

Lang sells his scents in Barneys New York, Aedes de Venustas, Scent Bar and Liberty in London. During a recent Elements show, he was surprised to run into a buyer from London-based Fortnum & Mason, which carried his line in the past. The two got to “reconnect” and “reignite a dialogue,” Lang said.

Because many small brands lack the financial resources to expand internationally, Elements’ founders plan to add a “global component” to their shows.

“There’s a whole new opportunity right there,” Lang said.

Within the next year, new Elements editions will be announced, including potentially a Middle East show, as the region is a hotbed for high-priced, beautifully-packaged exclusive scents, according to Lang.

Distributors there “really know how to merchandise smaller brands and give them their own universe,” he explained. And the customer there tends to be a heavy user, buying “three or six pieces at a time because they like to walk in a cloud of fragrance.”

For them, “fragrance is part of their lifestyle,” concluded Lang.

View original article and images at Beauty Store Business

ELEMENTS SHOWCASE PROVIDES A FRESH TAKE ON THE CONCEPT OF A TRADE SHOW, INTRODUCING BUYERS TO THE WORLD OF SCENTS.
by Leah Genuario

The Elements Showcase was held on Jan. 30-31 at Skylight West in New York City. The show, which is advertised as a “curated” fragrance and design show, showcased the artistic side of the industry.

Upon entering the room, visitors were immediately struck by the uniform color palette of white, silver and black, in addition to strategic placement of oversized, round paper lanterns throughout the venue. Its thoughtful presentation and innovative style is the brainchild of three professionals—Frederick Bouchardy, Ulrich Lang and Jeffrey Lawson—two of whom hail from the fragrance industry, with the latter a contemporary art-industry pundit.

Elements Showcase is a newer show to hit the industry. The January showcase represented the third edition for the biannual event. As the show has grown and evolved, the co-founders continue to upgrade.

In August 2011, Elements Showcase was expanded to a second floor and an educational component was added with the introduction of the Elements Forum. These two elements were maintained in the January show, with more additions. A second forum was added, as well as an indie award and ceremony, made possible through the partnership of The Fragrance Foundation (and the 2012 FiFi “Indie” Fragrance Award), RPG and Givaudan. Other innovative add-ons included a Martial Vivot barbershop built on-site by Caron Paris, a tasting bar from tea company Le Palais des Thés, and a limited-edition Elements-blend Blue Bottle coffee drip station hosted by coffee shop and lifestyle store Lost Weekend NYC.

More than 100 brands exhibited at the January 2012 showcase, nearly tripling the size from the inaugural event the year prior. Approximately 2,000 attendees braved the cold, mainly representing buyers, retailers, distributors and press. Key retailers, according to the show’s organizers, included representatives from Barneys New York, Sephora, Henri Bendel and QVC.

While scent is a unifying factor for the show, not all companies were showcasing perfume. Additional products included men’s lines, antiaging products, aromatherapy, candles and other home scents. What’s in store for the next show? “We are pleased to announce the next and fourth Elements Showcase will take place on Aug. 20-21, 2012, in New York City,” says Lawson. “Visitors can expect to see an enhanced focus on skin care, men’s products and a new component involving other senses.” For more information, visit elements-showcase.com or call 212.268.6148.

Here’s a look at eight companies that exhibited at the third Elements Showcase—and merchandise that we highly recommend you place on your shelves.

[Image: Courtesy of Elements Showcase]

CRAFTING BEAUTY

Crafting Beauty is a New York-based company with a French fragrance factory. Its business is split into two parts: private-label manufacturing and distribution. On the private-label end, the company provides product development, manufacturing at its Marseille, France, location, and sales support for clients wishing to create perfume and other fragrance extensions. One of its brands, Jouany, started out as a private-label brand by photographer Christophe Jouany, and is now distributed through the company. On the distribution end, Crafting Beauty is committed to distributing only French products.

Crafting Beauty recently announced the introduction of Jacomo. Targeted toward a younger audience, what immediately stands out is its packaging. Tailored to look like a smartphone, the lightweight design can fit into a pocket or bag for on-the-go use. The 1.7-ounce Eau de Toilette for Men features top notes of lemon and grapefruit, blending patchouli, vanilla and musk for a masculine mix. The female version utilizes top notes of pineapple and mandarin, blending these fruity scents with jasmine, iris powder and lily of the valley. Crafting Beauty offers a number of POS materials. One free tester, samples and bags are given for each opening order (six units minimum per order). Suggested retail price: $45.

[Image: Courtesy of Crafting Beauty]

ANTHOUSA

Anthousa home ambiance perfumes are a collection of home diffusers and candles inspired by the company name, Anthousa, which means “the perfect bloom” in Greek. It currently offers seven scents as well as limited editions biannually, with fragrances and colors inspired by landscapes around the globe. An intentionally luxurious line currently featured at stores such as Neiman Marcus and Barneys, the eco-friendly brand blends modern femininity with an old-world flair.

Vetivert Jade is Anthousa’s spring 2012 limited-edition fragrance. Inspired by the natural lavender shades in jade, the fragrance features a combination of fresh citrus notes, complex woods and spices. Argentinean lemon, oak moss and sage leaf are blended with nutmeg, black peppercorn and mahogany woods, and then balanced with vetivert, musk and orris root. The scent comes as a diffuser or a candle. Candles are housed in frosted, Italian glass tumblers. SRPs: $72 diffuser, $35 candle.

[Image: Courtesy of Anthousa]

BOND NO. 9

Founded by industry veteran Laurice Rahme, a Parisian-turned-New Yorker, Bond No. 9 takes inspiration from the city in which it operates: New York. Each fragrance celebrates a different area of New York City. Currently, 48 fragrances exist in the Bond No. 9 line, representing a plethora of neighborhoods and parks in the Big Apple.

Each fragrance utilizes the same bottle: a five-point glass container with sculptural properties. What’s different with each scent is the graphic decoration, which artfully tells the story of the area it represents. The company also recently expanded from its urban platform with its I Love NY line, a celebration of New York the state.

At Elements Showcase, Bond No. 9 announced the spring 2012 introduction of Central Park West, the seventh fragrance to find its muse from a New York City park. Central Park West is known for its grand apartment houses overlooking a two-and-a-half mile stretch of urban grassland. The fragrance with the same namesake has been designed with the same grandeur, utilizing narcissus mingled with tangy ylang ylang and a pinch of piquant pepper. Other notes include orris, jasmine, linden and gardenia, mixed in with a base of white oak and vetiver, combined with a whiff of musk.

The bottle’s decoration features an updated version of the luxurious houndstooth check pattern and a detachable bracelet. SRPs: $250, 100 ml; $180, 50 ml; $130 bodysilk; $110 candle; $75 shower gel.

[Image: Courtesy of Bond No. 9]

THE CHARLIE GARDNER COLLECTION

Husband-and-wife duo Nisreen and Christian Gardner launched TheCharlie Gardner Collection last year with a goal of promoting the importance of global awareness and sensitivity. The company offers home and lifestyle products, donating a share of its profits towards international and local development programs for disadvantaged youth.

Its first line, a collection of candles named India, features scents and packaging inspired by the area with the same name. Quickly following was Africa, a candle collection utilizing gardenia and the intriguing spice of South African sandalwood. In addition to its philanthropic efforts, packaging is another key priority for the brand. The company was intentional about creating containers that would also be valued as keepsakes.

For summer burning, the company recommends its Signature candle, featuring an orange blossom scent appropriate for any room in the house. A bright orange box with gold details and a metallic embossed logo quickly tempt customers to pick up the product.

The Gardners are committed to partnering with retailers, offering in-store event coordination, signage and POS displays. SRP: $38.

[Image: Courtesy of the Charlie Gardner Collection]

21 DROPS

21 Drops is a modern company backed by thousands of years of research. Launched last year and founded by a clinical aromatherapist with 20 years of experience, the company leverages ancient understanding about the healing properties of plants and combines it with modern medical information to create a line of therapeutic-grade essential oils.

All of its oils are sourced from sustainable, indigenous habitats and adhere to a rigorous,
self-imposed therapeutic standard. Each undergoes GC-MS quality testing to ensure its exact composition and activity.

The showpiece of 21 Drops, the company, is the product by the same name. 21 Drops artisan blends are 21 custom-blended aromatherapy solutions aimed at resolving 21 universal complaints. Each blend is sold individually and marked with a number and name. Its best seller is currently #11, De-Stress, but there are blends for a variety of other ailments that affect body, mind and soul.

Currently, both Lucite and wood displays are available to retailers, and the oils are packaged in an airtight roller-top glass bottle. SRP: $29.

[Image: Courtesy of 21 Drops]

PORTLAND GENERAL STORE

Portland General Store delivers its products from Maine with love. Creating things for the discerning man who cares about the finer things in life, the brand entices users to imagine the good ole days by the sea.

The line’s look was inspired by old, vintage formulary books, and special packaging touches—such as products in repurposed cigar boxes—add a memorable flair.

In addition to these muses, the company is also intentional about offering high-performance natural products, mixing innovative scents with ingredients such as sea minerals, clay, essential oils and plant-based materials.

One of its best sellers from the start, Portland General Store offers its Whiskey—yes, whiskey-flavored—After-Shave Splash, featuring natural ingredients such as sea kelp extract, blue-green algae and organic aloe vera to bathe and nourish the skin. Made without drying alcohol, the whiskey-infused scent is packed in a 120-ml amber glass bottle with a flow-limiter cap. The splash is particularly quenching after a wet shave with Whiskey Old-Fashioned Wet Soap. SRP: $16.

[Image: Courtesy of Portland General Store]

LUBIN PARIS

It is likely that Lubin Paris was the oldest company exhibiting by at least a couple hundred years. Pierre Francois Lubin founded his perfume house in 1798 just after the French Revolution, having served as an apprentice of Fargeon, the perfumer to the Royal Court. Its long-standing history is reflected in fragrances such as Black Jade, a re-creation of the last scent made for Queen Marie Antoinette while she was in prison. Today’s Lubin Paris blends modernity with antiquity, offering 12 scents within three lines: contemporary, exotic and vintage. It aims to serve an upscale audience.

The company’s best seller is Gin Fizz, a fragrance originally crafted in 1955 for Princess Grace Kelly. The scent, named after the popular cocktail found at 1950s-era, American-style bars in Paris, is a fresh, light scent the starlet used in the mornings. Gin Fizz follows its initial notes of hesperidia and greens with iris, enriched with a floral bouquet of jasmine and rose, and finally coming to rest on a bed of precious woods. The fragrance is part of the vintage collection, an elegantly packaged collection that incorporates silk into the exterior box. SRP: $120.

[Image: Courtesy of Lubin Paris]

ESSENTIA

Exhibiting for the first time in America, Japanese companyEssentia was showcasing its DI SER fragrance brand. The brand takes its inspiration from the lotus flower, which symbolizes enlightenment because its blossoms spring from muddy waters. The lotus flower features prominently in company literature and on its packaging, including the incorporation of lotus-inspired medallions.

DI SER uses natural ingredients gathered throughout the world, and aromatic oils are carefully blended one at a time to showcase the original character of each floral and wood note.

The company offers its Elements Collection, named Tsuki, Mizu, Taiyo and Kaze. The names are Japanese for “moon,” “water,” “sun” and “wind.” The unisex scents, which feature a hint of spicy flair, are tailored toward younger audiences. Its packaging utilizes metallic accents and a sleek, contemporary look. SRP: $110, 50 ml.

[Image: Courtesy of Essentia]

Leah Genuario is a Hawthorne, NJ-based freelance writer. She is the former editor of Beauty Packaging.

View the original article at SpaTrade.com.

April 18, 2012

The 4^th biannual Elements Showcase will take place in New York City from Aug. 20-21. The event is a finely crafted and curated fragrance and design tradeshow where professionals in the beauty and grooming marketplace, gather for a unique and educational experience. The event is the brainchild of Frederick Bouchardy of Joya Studios, and Uli Lang of Ulrich Lang New York, who together with art fair producer, Jeffery Lawson, wanted to develop an event specifically for luxury and niche fragrance, skincare, and cosmetics brands. Now a premier event, Elements Showcase attracts industry leaders, buyers, and brands–both upcoming and established over the course of two days. In addition, the educational content and art installations, a collaborative effort with W magazine, and The Fragrance Foundation, bring an even more innovative experience to the event. For information please contact www.elements-showcase.com.

View the original article and images at Beauty Packaging.

The Fragrance Foundation partnered with Elements Showcase to reveal the winner of this year’s FiFi Indie Fragrance Award.
By Jamie Matusow, Editor